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Thanks for following our trip. I'll have one more post and add some more pictures in a couple of days, so stay tuned...

Sunday, January 25 - Memphis, Sakkara, and Old Cairo - The Last Hoorah

We started the morning with a “group meeting to talk about Egypt.” Christians cannot worship as openly here as in some countries. As it turns out, Danny presented an excellent lesson very strongly tied to what we have seen on the trip. So much of the Egyptians’ life was centered on preparation for their journey into the afterlife, something we as Christians can relate to. One of the scenes that is prevalent in the hieroglyphics we’ve seen is related to the judgment of the their heart (depicted by a human heart and feather compared in a balance) by the gods to determine whether they will have safe passage into the afterlife. There are so many similarities and contrasts between our life today and the lives of those ancient cultures we’ve been learning about on this trip. After a trip like this, reading the scriptures will have a new meaning as we reflect on the places and things we’ve seen. Today, our last day in Egypt, is bittersweet. We are all looking forward to getting home, but we hate to leave behind the site, sounds, memories, and new friendships that we’ve experienced over the last 10 days.

Worship service at the hotel. Everyone is here, the lens just isn’t a wide enough angle to capture everyone.

Our first stop today is Memphis, capital of the ancient kingdom. Little remains of the world's first imperial capital. King Menes is said to have united Egypt's southern valley and northern delta around 3100 BC and created the capital at Memphis. Memphis was built where the delta and valley met. Most building were constructed of mudbrick, and have long since disappeared. A small New Kingdom Alabaster Sphinx and a limestone colossus of Ramses II as a young man are on show in a modern pavilion in the open-air museum. The Alabaster Sphinx was carved to honor an unknown pharaoh. It is 26 feet long and 13 feet tall. The statue of Ramses II (Ramses the Great) was discovered in the city of Akhnim, 285 miles south of Cairo. It is the largest statue of Ramses II found to date. It is a place of the kings, but contrary to the rumors, we didn’t see Elvis.Osman explains the hieroglyphics on the base of a column. Noemi, Catherine, Buddy, and Katherine pay close attention.

We continue to Abusir, which contains a complex of four pyramids Saqqara (also spelled Sakkara) which is a short distance from Memphis. The Step Pyramid at Saqqara is the first pyramid built in Egypt. Saqqara, the necropolis of the city of Memphis, is one of the largest and most important cemeteries in Egypt. The Old Kingdom royal family and nobles were buried there, and was in use for more than 3,000 years. The Step Pyramid of King Djoser was part of the complex. The Step Pyramid was built by Djoser's architect, Imhotep in the 27th century BC. It was the first pyramid in Egypt and marks the first time kings were buried above ground instead of in underground tombs. Imhotep was later deified for his efforts. Snefru's Bent and Red Pyramids at Dashur were the next to be built. We visited the tomb of Mereruka, the son-in-law of King Teti (2345-2323), which had incredible paintings that described the 5 stages of his life and what he hoped to have in the afterlife.

Osman took orders for lunch on the bus and we stopped at a carpet school (interesting, but nothing like the school we visited in Turkey) while lunch was being prepared. Lunch today was superb and many commented it was one of the best of the trip. Fresh pita made in brick ovens in front of the restaurant (nothing like the pita we have in the states) was followed by all the rice and grilled meat (chicken, beef or lamb) we could eat. And as in Turkey, they serve French fries on the side. We have all had more than our share of carbohydrates and bread on this trip! They serve bread and potatoes at breakfast, lunch and dinner!

Lacey gets a lesson in carpet weaving.

Oswan promised to have us back to the hotel by 4:00pm but everyone agreed we’d rather pack a little more sightseeing in, as opposed to going back to pack luggage. We headed back to Old Cairo and made quick stops at the Coptic Museum that houses one of the largest exhibits of Coptic art in the world. Christian scenes and scripture are depicted on linen, stone, and manuscripts.

We walked a short distance to the Church of St. Sergius, which some believe to be the location where Joseph, Mary, and baby Jesus sheltered when they fled to Egypt. Regardless, it is considered to be the oldest structure in old Cairo. Its foundation dates back to the 5th century AD. Many of us still had Egyptian pounds, so we had a few minutes for shopping at the bazaar. It was a long drive back into town (as is always the case because of traffic), but Osman had one last treat for us. We finally got our felucca (sailboat) ride. Osman has been trying to fit it in for several days, but there has been no wind. Tonight we are treated to wind, sunset on the Nile, and an entertaining sailor from Aswan. However, the most memorable part of the trip was when the captain offered us 1000 camels for Stacy’s hand in marriage. We’ll know what’s up if Stacy takes another trip to Egypt!

Wally, Sandy, Buddy, and Catherine cruising the Nile.

The captain of the felucca rows us out to where we can catch some wind.

Sailing into the Egyptian sunset.

And now, to answer Jane’s question, unfortunately we have not been able to find Magnum bars, but Osman did have ice cream waiting for us on the bus after the felucca ride. Now that’s the way to end a day! We said our reluctant goodbyes to Osman. He has set a high bar for all guides on future trips. He has been with us for 10 days and feels like part of the family. He is incredibly knowledge, extremely personable, and has made us all feel safe and welcome in his country. Most of all he is incredibly passionate about teaching others about the stories this ancient land tells about the Egyptian people and their connection to the Bible. He asks for us to remember him and his family in our prayers. A request we are happy to honor.

We enjoyed our last meal as a group Bedouin style in an outdoor tent. All that’s left is to say goodbye to our new friends and the dreaded 12 hour flight back.

Margaret, Frances, Danny, Sara, Katherine, Linda, Boyd, and Burton enjoy a Bedouin style dinner.

Saturday, Jan. 24 – The Land of Goshen

Note: Please see Ferrell’s Travel Blog for the biblical significance of the places we visited today. Today we have a full day of bus travel (yippee) into the eastern Delta region of Egypt. We will visit the ancient land of Goshen, where the Israelites lived during the time of their oppression. It takes us quite a while to get out of Cairo, as usual, and we have to stop a couple of times to “check” in with the authorities. What seems strange now, is just the beginning of today’s adventure. As I mentioned before, we always have an armed guard with us, but today the take it up a notch. We pass through a military compound and have two armed cars escort us- one in the front and one in the back. As we cross from Cairo’s providence (there are 28 in Egypt) into the next (like crossing county lines), we have to stop at a checkpoint. Oswan had to get out of the bus, and spent a significant amount of time talking to the authorities about our route and where we are gong today. Apparently our agenda is not standard for tourists. In fact our bus driver has never been on these roads, so this should be interesting! Oswan came back to the bus for water to offer the “Governor” and there is no telling what else he had to do to make it happen (someone mentioned bananas), but he came through again. They agree to let us go, but the Governor is coming with us! Wow, we are thinking we are pretty important at this point. We have 3 escorts in front and 2 in back…and don’t forget, the Governor is in one of the cars…Ferrell says this is as close to being at the center of a funeral procession as we can get, and now we know how it feels. It’s been about 2 hours and I bet we haven’t gone more than 20 miles! When Oswan returns, we also learn that there are many more military workers than there are jobs, so the fact that we being so heavily monitored, really doesn’t mean much. They just need something to do this afternoon!

We are well protected. There are three more of these in front of the bus.

As we drive into the delta region, we observe life as it must have been for years. We pass beautiful, green fields on both sides of the bus and see the locals tending and harvesting crops, transporting crops either by donkey drawn cart, single donkey, or just on top of their heads. One of the most fascinating observations are the “fertilizer” factories. Every farm has one…or two…or more. They park their cow, bull, or donkey in front of a stack of hay and fertilizer is deposited of the other end. The fancy ones are even shaded under straw huts. Jane are you sorry you asked me to blog on this trip? We sure do miss you and Olen.

Did I mention that the armed cars sound their sirens as we pass through these tiny villages. You’d think “Omaba” was coming through.

Our first stop is the scattered ruins of Bubastis, which was the ancient capitol of Egypt. It is near the modern city of Zagizig - we remember the name because it sounds like a zig-zag, but backwards. It is located 48 miles north of Cairo. This is the ancient sight of Pi-beseth (mentioned in Ezekiel 30:17), which is the house of Bastet, the cat-goddess. Bastet was the daughter of Ra, the sun god.

Becky (l) and Katherine (r) examine a pottery shard at Bubastis.

We are quite shocked to learn that there is no WC (water closet - or restroom to us) at the site, since they are building a new museum. The WC on the bus is also out of order, and it has been a long time since we boarded the bus. We put in a request for a rest stop and Oswan promises to see what he can do. You really can’t appreciate what an outrageous request this is. There just aren’t pubic facilities, especially ones to accommodate a tour bus, in the middle of nowhere, which is close to where we are! Oswan sees a public medical facility and they graciously allow us to invade the facility. We are much happier travelers now!

Next stop is the ancient royal city of Tanis (biblical Zoan, Numbers 13:22; Psalms 78:12, 43). In movie legend,Raiders of the Lost Ark, this is where Indiana Jones' character recovered the Ark of the Covenant. Tanis was Egypt's capitol during the 21st and 22nd dynasties. The tombs (empty sarcophagus) of Sheshong III, Psusennes I, and Osorkon are located at this site, as well as 14 (pieces of) pink granite obelisks, and a number of statues of Rameses II.

Stacy has been keeping an incredible journal on this trip. She is even sketching some of the images, hieroglyphics, and statues inside the tombs and museums.

We continue into the rural delta area and are fascinated by how much these scenes still reflect life as it was in ancient times. Contrast that with the fact that we have had cell phone coverage almost constantly. We pass orange orchards, fruit stands, and even car part shops. Especially amusing, since the cars on the road don’t appear to ever receive any mechanical attention. We even saw two camels riding in the back of a truck. There just seems to be something wrong with that picture.

I bet you thought I was kidding about the camels!

Tell el-Daba is currently identified as Avaris, the Hyksos capital, and is thought to be the Rameses of Exodus 1:11. Ramses was one of the treasure cities (along with Pithom) that the Israelites built. Tell el-Daba is not open to tourists at this time so we just drive past it. I did get a picture of the canal that follows the Pelusiac branch of the Nile.

We saw two significant sites in the regions we are currently in, known as the Wadi Tumilat. First, we approached Tell el-Retebah which is possibly Pithom, the “house of Atum,” from Exodus 1:11. Because we have this caravan of military escorts, we are not allowed to stop and take pictures. Oswan told us to ready the cameras and that the “Tell “ (an unexcavated archeological site) could be seen just as we passed over the bridge. We all aimed and shot out the window, but I’m not sure I got anything other than a hill of dirt! About 10 miles south of Pithom, we approached Tell el-Maskhuta, which is thought to be the biblical city of Succoth (Ex. 13:20; Num. 33:6). Succoth was one of the places the Israelites camped after leaving Egypt. Over the years various Scholars have flipped-flopped between the identification of these two cities. Both sites are located in the east end of Wadi Tumilat. The Land of Goshen is in what is referred to today as the Wadi Tumilat. We are pretty weary at this time so the jokes are pretty bad. Someone suggested that this area is the “Tell of Two Cities.”

Stacy, Margaret, Sara, Ferrell Jr., Judy, Lacey, and Michael anxiously await the "Tell" sighting.

Our final stop today is at the hotel Mercure, a very welcomed rest stop on Lake Timsah (at Ismailia). Lake Timsah is a part of the Suez Canal system. We rushed outside the hotel to the shore of the lake to see the Suez Canal before dark. Several of us plunged a hand or foot into the water, so we could say we had touched the Mediterranean and Red Sea at the same time. The regions is thought by some scholars to have been the place of the crossing of the Yam Suph (Reed Sea). Other scholars place the crossing of the Sea between Lake Timsah and Lake Ballah.

I was told the author was required to post her picture too, so here I am at the Suez Canal.

I probably won't have a chance to post our last day until I get back, so stay tuned...there is more to come. It has been a fabulous trip.

Friday, January 23 - Return Flight from Aswan to Cairo

We awoke early to catch an 8:30 flight back to Cairo. For the first time on the trip, I happened to be out just at dawn. Elizabeth had opened the door at the end of the boat to let in some air, and the view from the deck was very nice. The boat in the foreground is an old vessel that looks like it might have been a paddleboat at one time.

Lights along the Nile at sunrise.

Our flight to Cairo was uneventful, but we departed about 45 minutes late - I felt right at home. In Cairo, we collected our luggage, but it would be a long time before we went anywhere. Friday is a weekend day in Cairo (they work Sunday-Thursday) but the traffic leaving the airport was horrible, and the weather wasn’t much better. There is a nasty sand storm in the area that looks a lot like a very foggy day in the states. We are sooooo very glad we went to the pyramids the first day we arrived. By the time we got out of the airport it was almost 1:00 pm (keep in mind we got up at 5:30 am). So we stopped at a restaurant that looks out over the Nile for lunch.

The next stop is a high quality papyrus shop. We were given a wonderful demonstration on how papyrus was made by the ancient Egyptians. Dr. Ragbab, a professor, perfected a modern technique that is based on the ancient process. A number of us bought pieces that will make nice reminders of hieroglyphics and the many scenes from our trip.

Sara tries her hand at peeling a piece of papyrus.

Enrique applies pressure to strips of woven papyrus in a press to remove the large amount of water in the woven material.

The finished produce is transparent and contains no glue and is very flexible.

The bus drops some off at a linen store for Egyptian cotton, while others are shopped out and continue to the hotel. We at staying at the Grand Pyramids Hotel, for the next three days. If not for the sand storm, I would be able to see the pyramids out the window of my room. Tomorrow we are heading to the ancient land of Goshen, which is in the Delta region of the nile.

Thursday, January 22 - Aswan, A Land of Ancient Crossroads

Note: More pictures to come...

After spending the night docked in Aswan we awoke to another beautiful, crisp morning. Aswan is Egypt's southernmost town and is more like Africa than the rest of Egypt. The people are mostly Nubians, taller and darker than the Upper Egyptians. Aswan is renowned for its wonderful winter climate and beautiful setting. Some scholars identify the Arabic name Aswan with the Syene of Ezekiel 29:10 and 30:6. It may be identified with the Sinim of Isaiah 49:12. Aswan was located at the crossroads of ancient trade routes between Egypt, Africa, and India. After breakfast we loaded a bus and headed south. For all of those that are concerned about safety over here, I’ve been meaning to tell you that anytime we go out we have an armed guard with us, something they have been doing with tour groups since about 2000. I’ve become so accustom to it the guards seem to be just part of the group. We have a different one a least once a day. Oswan initially told us their name each day. Now he just calls them Michael because that was the first one’s name. So Michael 10 or 11 was with us today…I’ve lost track. We drove over the Old Dam, which was completed by the British in 1902 to help provide a controllable water source for controlling floods and irrigating lands around the Nile. However it was too small to control the floods, so a new dam, the High Dam (Sadd El-Ali ), was started in the 1960’s. It took 10 years to build. It is the largest (about 2.2 miles long) and highest (about 360 ft ) land-fill dam in the world and generates enough electricity to supply all of Egypt and a number of other countries. It created Lake Nasser and tamed the annual flooding of the Nile, however, the Nubians lost their land many of them who lived in this area had to be resettled by the Egyptian government. The building of the dam was disastrous for a number of ancient monuments which were destroyed by the lake, including the complex at Philae. Our bus drops us at a dock where we load a small motor boat for a short trip to the island of Agilkia where the complex of Philae was relocated. Our boat is always greeted at these tour stops by large numbers of street vendors. The vendors often want to know where you are from, as this is a very popular destination for European ”holiday”. They can usually spot the Americans, but what has been particularly interesting on this trip is that instead of saying “America?” we are often greeted with what has now become a somewhat expected greeting. They state as a question the word “Obama?” and then when we nod our heads yes, they smile and give us the thumbs up. It seems as though President Obama has become a uniting ideal in this part of the world.

Enrique, Noemie, and Michael kick back and take it easy on the Nile.

We took a short ride to the island, the location where the Greco-Roman temples of Philae were reconstructed stone by stone. these shrines were moved from Philae to Agilkia Island between 1972-1980 to protect them from the rising Nile caused by the Aswan Dam. You can still see pylons from the original site in the water nearby. The main temple at Philae was dedicated to Osiris's wife, Isis, who enjoyed unrivaled popularity in the Mediterranean world. At the entrance to the Temple of Isis is a long colonnade leading up to the pylon (entrance gate). The colonnade was never completed and we are able to see columns in various stages of completion. Also located in this complex is the Kiosk of Nectanebo (4th century BC), the Gate of Hadrian, The Temple of Hathor, and the Temple of Trajan. The Temple of Isis was built in the Ptolomaic and early Roman periods and contains both architectures. The Gate of Hadrian (394 AD) contains the last hieroglyphics produced in Egypt. The boat is waiting to take us back, so we reluctantly board.

The bus is waiting to take us to visit the southern end of Aswan, an area of ancient red granite quarries, where stone for the building of many of Egypt's monuments was obtained. We are here to see The Unfinished Obelisk. This gigantic single piece of carved granite was intended to be an obelisk and still remains attached to the rock on one side. It sits amidst an enormous hillside of solid granite where many other graphite cuttings can be seen. It is generally thought to have been commissioned by Queen Hatshepsut, because it is very similar to her obelisk in Karnak Temple in Luxor. In ancient times, obelisks and other large stone objects were usually blocked out roughly before they left the quarry. You can see evidence here of a technique thought to be used for splitting the hard stone away from its surrounding rock. Groves or divots were cut along the line where the stone was to be detached. Wooden wedges were driven in and then soaked with water. The force of the swelling wood would act to split the granite. The stone, which measures 42m in length and would have weighed about 1216 tons, developed a flaw during quarrying and was never completed. It was left to lie still attached to the living rock for the next 3000 years. What an incredible marvel of early technology. After lunch, we boarded a smaller motor boat for our next adventure down the Nile. I just can’t describe how beautiful our weather has been. The mornings are crisp, but by midday, the temperature is perfect and there is almost no humidity, especially in this area, where it almost never rains. Oswan jokes about the locals calling it heavy rains when it sprinkles. Next we continued further south (to what is called Upper Egypt because the Nile flows from south to north) to what is called the First Cataract. Before there were dams on the Nile, the rocky region created waterfalls. This rocky region is known as a cataract.

We cruise at a gentle pace along the river banks, watching life along the Nile and soaking up sites along banks. We pass the Tombs of the Nobles, tombs from the Old and Middle Kingdom which are carved out of the rock hillside. In contrast to the sandy, rocky hills sides, we soon pass a lush, botanical garden on Kitchener’s Island. The island was presented to British General Kitchener in the 1890’s as a reward for leading the Egyptian army’s successful campaigns in Sudan. Kitchener made it his home, importing tropical plants from around the world. Perched on a barren desert hillside high above the Nile, sits the villa and Mausoleum of Aga Khan, the 48th Imam (leader) of the Ismaili sect of Shiite Muslims. He lived in the villa and after his death, his wife had the Mausoleum built in his honor. On the east bank of the river we soon pass the Sofitel Cataract Hotel, the location where Agatha Christie penned “Death on the Nile”. All along the way we see a large number of birds and much to our surprise out of nowhere 2 young boys in tiny wooden boats appear at the side of our boat. They cling to the boat and serenade us. We are told can sing in a number of languages…English doesn’t seem to be one of them. They are precious and we tip them “one dolla” as is customary. The next island we pass is Elephantine Island. The island is the oldest inhabited area in Aswan. Located on the southern end of the island is the Temple of Khnum, The famous Elephantine Papyri of the fourth and fifth century B.C. were found here. A nileometer, a device used to measure the height of the river, is located on the island, but somehow, I missed it. Nileometers were used to determine the amount of tax paid each year. If the Nile was high, it was a good productive year, and taxes would be high. I guess governments have always taken their “fair” share. We round a bend in the river to find a caravan of camels. A number of the group journey the remaining way to a Nubian village the old fashioned way. It was an incredible experience (except maybe getting on the camel) I will never forget. With the warm sun on our face, the camels transport us just along the edge of the desert. The Nile on our left and the desert sands on our right. We tried to take pictures, but the camels needed shock absorbers! The pictures are a little crooked and blurred, but a great time was had by all. They dropped us off at a small Nubian village, where we sampled refreshments, played with the baby crocodiles, (I think someone has a picture of me holding one!) and shopped for spices and trinkets. Again, we reluctantly boarded the small boat and headed off for a sunset cruise back to our cruise boat. Felucca (sail boats) dot the river, unfurling their sails and providing beautiful silhouettes for pictures of the setting sun.

Alyssa, Mike, Boyd, and Buddy get the ride of a lifetime on a camel.

It has been an unforgettable day as we return to the boat for dinner and a little time at the internet café. The café is housed in a row of shops that have red granite walls, floors, columns - you name it, it is granite. It is one of the cheapest building materials in the area. Ferrell Jr. thinks it would make great countertops in his house. I wonder if they have FedEx…

Wednesday, January 21 – Temples of Edfu and Kom Ombo

Note: I’m trying to catch up, so today’s entry will be short and sweet. I’ll try to beef it up as time allows.

Temple of Horus at Edfu

We start our day with an early morning visit to Edfu, the Temple of Horus, the falcon god. We travel to the temple by caleches (horse drawn carriages) and get a little taste of everyday life as we travel through the streets of Edfu. The Greek temple was built in 237 BC by Ptolemy III on the site where Horus is believed to have fought his uncle Seth for control of the world. It is the only complete temple in Egypt and second in size only to Karnak. It was buried in the sand and houses built over it until archaeologists uncovered it in the 1860's. Edfu and Kom Ombo are post-pharonic temples. Relief carvings show Ptolemy III and XII along with the Egyptian deities. We returned to the boat again by caleches and had a “bar-b-que” lunch while we sailed to Kom Ombo. Margaret was trying to figure out if it would be pork or beef BBQ, but it was just grilled food. It was excellent, but it might have been because it was served on the deck of the boat as we cruised a little further south. We continue to enjoy the scenery along the river banks.

Kom Ombo Temple

In the afternoon, we visit the Ptolemaic temple, dedicated to the crocodile-headed Sobek and the hawk-headed Haroeris. Most Egyptian temples were dedicated to a single deity, but Kom Ombo Temple, started by Ptolemy VI in 180 BC and finished by Roman emperor Augustus (30 BC-AD 14) was dedicated to Horus the Elder and the crocodile god, Sobek. The Chapel of Hathor near the entrance houses some mummified crocodiles. The other side was dedicated to Horus the Elder, known as the Good Doctor and attracted sick in hope of a cure. In this temple, as with many others, the early Christians defaced the images of idol gods on the temples walls when they began to use them as churches. However, they left the images of the sun intact because they believed that Jesus was “the Light” and that defacing this emblem would be sacrilegious. The temple sits atop a hillside that provided an incredible view of the sun setting over the Nile. We stayed as long as we could and then watch the sky turn from yellow to gold to a deep, deep red. Seeing the sun set here gives you just a little more appreciation for why this ancient people placed so much emphasis on the sun.

Sunset on the Nile

We returned to the boat for “Egyptian night”. Many dressed for dinner in colorful tunics and headdress. Despite our efforts to fit in, I think the natives will still say “Obama?”

Judy, Frances, Carole, Margaret and Susan walk like Egyptians

Tuesday, January 20 - Valley of the Kings and View of the Nile

This morning we loaded ferry boats to cross the Nile from our boat which is docked on the east bank to “The West Bank” (not the West Bank we associate with the Middle East!) for our visit to Thebes and the Valley of the Kings where the great pharaohs of the New Kingdom (1546-1085 BC) were buried. We’ve learned on this trip that in ancient Egypt, funerary temples were located on the west side of the Nile, and temples for worship on the east. Our first stop is the Colossi of Memnon. These two statues of Amenhotep III, which are 60 ft tall, originally guarded his mortuary temple, but it is no longer there. The Tesbian kings hid their tombs deep in the hills, away from their mortuary temples (about 6 miles) in order to try to fool thieves. The Valley of the Kings contains 64 known tombs of the Pharaohs. Not all tombs are open and of those only a few are open each day. There is also a Valley of Wives, Nobles, and Workers, but we only had time to visit the Kings. There are workers all around us excavating at a number of locations. Some carry the broken rock out in buckets placed on their shoulders, while others appear to be cleaning and inspecting shards. The mummified remains of King Tut can be visited for an additional fee, but we had to choose between seeing his or three others. We decided to skip it since we had seen the “good stuff” from his tomb in the Egyptian museum. The first tomb we visited, Ramses IX, had scenes depicting solar god’s nightly journey. The second tombs we visited was Ramses VI. It was stunning with a vaulted ceiling with paintings of astronomical features. The sarcophagus still remains in the inner chamber. For the last tomb we had a choice. Some went to the tomb of Tuthmosis III, a VERY steep climb, (90 feet to the entrance and then down an equal distance) while others went to the tomb of Ramses I. It is beautifully decorated and the inner chamber is shaped like a cartouche. There are very well preserved paintings that portray the Book of Amduat. A red granite sarcophagus remains in the tomb. For me, this tomb was particularly special. I had seen an Egyptian exhibit when I lived in Washington, DC and they had recreated the inner chamber of this tomb in the exhibit. I never dreamed I would get to see the real thing.

Alyssa, Lacey and Linda at the entrance to the tomb of Tuthmosis III.

Our bus driver navigated his way down the mountain and dropped us off at the Alabaster shop, a much anticipated stop! Osman explained how alabaster vessels were made by hand and workman at the shop demonstrated the process. This technique results in much different finish than the machine finished pieces we saw in Turkey last year. The white, amber and green pieces were stunning. Also available for purchase were necklaces of Lapis, Tiger eye, onyx, and amethyst to name a few. Our group did quite well with Osman to negotiate a price for us. Our final stop of the day was the Habu temple (Medinat Habu). It is the second largest temple and is dominated by mortuary temple of Ramses III. The beautifully carved and painted reliefs on the walls and columns contain the record of Ramses’ military campaigns and are very well preserved because Christians who converted the area to a church, covered the walls with plaster.

Our group entering the “gates” of the Habu temple.

We were ferried across the Nile again and arrived at the boat just barely in time for departure. Lunch was served at 1:00 and we had really worked up an appetite. The food on the ship is tasty, but we have been told not to eat any raw vegetables or fruits without peeling because if they have been cleaned, they were cleaned in the water, which is not safe for our systems that are not accustom to it. The produce is beautiful, so it is really hard to pass up.

Stark contrast between the fertile land along the Nile banks and the harsh desert.

Many of us spent the afternoon on the top deck relaxing and watching life on the Nile banks as we slowly drift by. Daily life takes you back to a much earlier time in America. We saw people washing clothes and dishes and some even witness a group bathing (discretely) in the river. We passed small fishing boats, livestock, small houses, large houses, and even grass huts. There is a marked contrast between the lush green foliage along the Nile and the desert mountains just beyond. Irrigation pipes are prevalent. For all of those who are freezing at home, we are sorry. It has been about 68-70 degrees here and we could not ask for better weather. People on the deck could be found playing cards, reading, and even napping.

Sheilah, Joan, Janet, and Lynda play a hand or two.

We had “high tea” at 4:00 and arrived at Esna a little later to wait for our turn to go through the locks. As we approached, we thought we were going to run over these tiny boats that were rowing furious toward us. Come to find out, they were coming to sell us Egyptian gowns and throws. They threw the items to the top of the boat and Burton served as middle man, negotiating for the best price and throwing the unwanted merchandise and money for the purchased items back to the boats. It was quite an adventure. I’ve never shopped boat to boat! Couldn’t top that so we called it a night.

Alyssa, Lacey, and Becky are building their own pyramids.

Monday, January 19 – Cairo to Luxor and Two Tremendous Temples

NOTE: We are having a hard time connecting while on the boat so I'm a little behind. I will continue to post as we have an opportunity.

We had an early flight from Cairo to Luxor, so morning came a little too soon. Our bags had to be packed and ready for pick-up at 6:00 and we were on our way by 7:00 am. They do things very differently in Egypt. Everyone had a boarding pass but it didn’t seem to matter that mine had someone else’s name on it. I took the slot of someone that couldn’t make the trip, and they hadn’t changed the name. It didn’t seem to matter. Oswan said it would be fine and it was. We flew over beautiful “mountainous” desert terrain and arrived in Luxor in less than an hour. Luxor is built on site of the “New Kingdom” ancient capitol city of Thebes (Jer. 46:25). Both Jeremiah and Ezekiel prophesied of the Lord’s judgment on the city and her gods. A visit to the temple ruins and fact that today’s rulers are no longer descendants of the Pharaohs are convincing evidences of these fulfilled prophecies. (See Ferrell‘s Travel Blog)

We arrived at the flat bottomed cruise boat that will be our home for the next 4 nights with enough time for a brief excursion to the Luxor Temple which sits literately across the street from the dock. Did I mention, the boat is on the Nile River? Wow! We drove over the Nile in Cairo, but we will live on it for the next four days! This is one of 300 cruise boats that tour the Nile. You can see a line of boats in either direction. Our boat is called the “Tuya”, named after Ramses’s mother. The weather is fabulous. We walked around the entire perimeter of the temple taking pictures and even stumbled across a McDonalds. Maybe Egypt isn’t so different after all! We made it back for a quick lunch, and were back on the bus by 2:00. Next stop - Karnak and it’s Temple of Amun. It was once connected to the Luxor Temple by a 1.2 mile street lined with Sphinx, part of which can be seen adjacent to both Karnak and the Luxor Temple.

Left wall of Karnak Temple with Sphinx lined street.

Karnak was the largest house ever built by ancient Egyptians for worship of multiple gods. It is a complex with several temple compounds. The main Temple of Amun is dedicated to the gods Amun, Mut, and Khonsu. Everything about it is massive in size. It is no wonder it took workers 2000 years to build it. The complex contains, a Colossus of Ramses II, two of ten (?) remaining obelisks an ornately painted festival temple, and numerous other temples, but the highlight for me was of the Great Hypostle Hall that was originally supported by 134 of the largest columns I’ve ever seen. Many still stand today and are covered with deeply grooved carvings and hieroglyphics. There was one for every priest that served here.

Lynda, Margaret, Sandy, Ann, Danny, Sara, Janet, Linda, and Carole (l to r) listen to Ferrell ( c ) provide additional insight.

The Hatshepsut obelisk located in the temple is made of red granite, and is the tallest obelisk in Egypt. Hatshepsut was the first female pharaoh in ancient Egypt. One particularly interesting relief found on a wall in the Temple of Amun at Karnak describes the rise of King Shishak (of Egypt) against Jerusalem (1 Kings 14:25-26). This wall contains the names of 156 towns of Judah and Israel that Shishank claimed to have conquered. While we waited on some of our group to make their way back, some of us went in search of some good luck. There is a monument with a scarab on top that is said to bring the following when circled counter-clockwise the following number of times: three - money, five - marriage, seven - fertility. I’ll let you try to figure out who went around how many times. You could easily spend a day or more here, but we had another temple to cover today!

Luxor Temple at night.

We finally loaded the bus at dusk and headed back to the Luxor Temple. By the time we arrived it was twilight which made for some beautiful, but challenging photos since the temple is illuminated with floodlights that accentuate the fine carvings, statues and columns. Over the centuries the temple had been buried in sand. Until the mid 1880’s, only the heads of Ramses II and tips of obelisks stuck out of the pile of debris on which Luxor village was built. The village was removed bit by bit, and only the tomb and mosque of Luxor's patron saint Abu al Haggag remains on top of the excavated temple. It is widely believed that there are numerous other remains in this area. The current governor recognizes the historical importance and is in the process of removing additional parts of the city so excavation can begin. He has a vision that the city itself will become a museum. I cannot imagine what this place will be like in the future. Guess we’ll just have to come back...

Some stayed at the temple, some went back to the boat and another few went to the Al Fayed essence factory. This is where they use an ancient press technique to squeeze essential oils out of what seemed to be just about anything. For those of you that have been to Turkey it is much like the rug shops. We were served tea, coffee, and a drink made from hibiscus flowers. We got to sample oils of myrrh, frankincense, and a number of other interesting fragrances. Purchases were made by many so we can now fix whatever ails you-pain, stress, dry skin, age spots, and colds and sinus issues. We arrived back at the boat in time for a late dinner and then I, for one, crashed. I’m regretting it now, since I’m a day behind…but sometimes, sleep is more important than blogging, unless of course you are Jane or Ferrell!

Doug and Linda smelling the roses and myrrh and frankincense…

Sunday, January 18th

Note to readers: For biblically based insights on the places we visit, please see Ferrell Jenkin's blog at ferrelljenkins.wordpress.com. We started the day with a worship service in the “Isis” room of our hotel. As I discovered on my first trip with Ferrell's group to Turkey, there is something special about services in a foreign country. It makes you really appreciate the freedoms we have. Ferrell spoke on the prophecies about Egypt - the land, and its rulers- in the Bible. It brings so much of what we are seeing to life.

We loaded the bus and headed off for the famous Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, which houses the magnificent treasures of King Tut-Ankh-Ahmun. The drive was quite interesting as we passed the sights of Cairo. We passed the metro, drainage canals, and drove over the longest bridge in Africa. We started our tour of the museum at a “very poor” replica of the famous Rosetta Stone used as cipher for translating Egyptian hieroglyphics. Next we stopped at the Merneptah Stele, which was like an Egyptian newspaper that described daily life in Egpyt. It is the first time that Israel is mentioned in Egyptian hieroglyphics. A couple of us stopped to read about a statue and when we turned around the group was gone. After taking a fast run through of the museum without finding our group we struck out on our own. We spent some time viewing artifacts from King Tut’s tomb and other artifacts that were buried in sarcophagi. We finally heard Osman’s familiar voice and were able to rejoin the group. Osman was telling the group about the embalming process for kings and priests. It was a very complicated process that lasted 40 days for most and 70 days for royals. We saw tools and containers used in the process, golden beds where the body was laid, and five layers in which King Tut’s body was entombed. One room is dedicated to the jewelry, chest pieces, inlaid and gold inner sarcophagi in which King Tut was laid. There were numerous jeweled pieces that were layered as the body was wrapped with linen. The highlight of the room was the golden mask placed directly over the linen on King Tut’s face. The mask is made of 24k gold, and is supposed to bear a strong resemblance to his actual facial features.

We also stopped by the oldest know mummy in the world. It is wrapped in linen in a fetal position and the coffin is a reed basket.

Lunch was next on the agenda. Osman called in our order, and our group was able to feast on chicken, shish kabobs, or fish as soon as we arrived. A few brave souls even order the ENTIRE fish…

After lunch we headed to the Great Pyramids and Sphinx which are the sole survivors of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. There are more than 80 pyramids along the plateau above the Nile valley between Giza and Faiyum. Giza is 11.16 miles southwest of Cairo. The Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops) is the oldest and largest of the three main pyramids. Pharaoh Cheops' son Khafre (Chephren) built the second pyramid and also gave the sphinx his face. Chephren's son, Menkaura (Mycerinus) built the third pyramid. The site originally contained the pyramids of their 9 wives (3 per king). The stones from some of the wives pyramids were used to build the old city. We followed the road past the pyramids to reach a plateau for a panoramic view. We stopped to take the requisite Jenkins Group photo in front of the three main Giza Pyramids. Osman tells us that each stone weighs on average 2.5 tons. It took workers about 20years to construct each one.

Frances and Margaret wave to their fans.

Our next stop was between the two largest pyramids. Twelve of us paid a few dollars to “walk” into the inner burial chamber in the center of the Cheops Pyramid. You enter through an opening that is about 3 feet tall. This adventure is not for the claustrophobic! The tunnel is on a 45 degree angle and that same height for the majority of the climb. First, down, then back up again. It finally opens up in to a chamber that is supposedly made of one single piece of stone. A marble sarcophagus, also carved from a single stone was positioned at one end.

We spent some time photographing the sites, and dodging the street vendors. You can pick up pretty much anything for “a dolla”. 20 postcards, papyrus, pictures on a camel…They follow you around and for a while we tried to be polite and responded with a “No thank you“, but after hearing it about 50 times a day, the answer becomes “NO.” Some in our group have not yet learned to say no...

Elizabeth shows off her purchase to Osman (l) and Joan's (r) purchase looks fabulous too!

Our final stop in this area is the Chephren Sphinx. It is believed that the face on the Sphinx is that of Pharaoh Chephren. The massive statue was cut out of the hillside, with a lion's body and a man's head. It has attracted more speculation than almost any other monument in Egypt. It was the first colossal statue of a pharaoh and was connected to the pyramid of the Pharaoh Chephren by a covered walkway.

Our final stop of the day was for a little jewelry shopping-the guys were thrilled. Osman educated us on the types and composition of gold and then sent us off to purchase cartouche pendants with our names written in hieroglyphics.

Susan and Burton pose in front of the Sphinx.

We worked up quite an appetite, but we will have to wait. Rush hour (i.e. anytime between 5:30 -8:00 pm) in Ciaro is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. I think all 80 million people are on the road to our hotel. The funniest thing we noticed was the variety of vehicles, and I use that term lightly, on the road. We passed a potato truck, a Ford, a cement truck, a scrap metal truck and a horse drawn buggy, all in the same lane. Oh and by the way, if they have lines on the road they just ignore them. People make their on lane, and if they don’t like the one they are in, they just make another one. An unexpected adventure. As we finally pull into the hotel about 8:30, we all hope the buffet is still open!

Friday, Jan. 16 – Depart New York City for Cairo, Egypt

Our group met at gate 22 at John F. Kennedy International Airport. It was great see friends from previous tours and meet new friends that we will share this adventure with. It always amazes me learn of the many connections and mutual acquaintances shared between Christians. Our plane departed New York about 5:00 pm. The flight was uneventful, and even shorter than we expected thanks to a 300 mph tailwind - what a pleasant surprise. We arrived in Cairo about 9:30 this morning, about an hour early! Some were able to catch a few hours of sleep, others weren’t so lucky. It is going to be a long day! The weather is beautiful and a pleasant 65 degrees-a nice change from the frigid weather we left in New York.

The Coast of Egpyt We were met at the airport by our guide for the tour, whom we will call Osman, which is his last name. He says his son can’t pronounce his first name properly, so I’m sure I would completely butcher it with my southern accent. We will be staying in Heliopolis the first two nights at the Le Passage Heliopolis Hotel. Heliopolis is the where the ancient city of On was located (Ezek. 30:17). Joseph married Asenath, the daughter of Potiphera, priest of On (Gen. 41:42, 50; 46:20). We were thrilled to have a chance to freshen up before the day’s tours started. Because of our early arrive, Osman was able to plan a fun filled day for us - he and Ferrell have ulterior motives. They want to keep us awake until at least after dinner to adjust our internal clocks to the local time.

Our driver is Abraham and he has the best deal on water in town - a welcomed addition so close to the desert! Osman gives us a history lesson as we drive to our first stop. The most important thing we learned was that what we call Egypt today is much larger than in biblical times. On our tour, when he refers to Egypt, he is referring to the “black soil around the river Nile.” This region covers only about 4% of current day Egypt. Our first stop today is the Alabaster Mosque. This is the Mohammed Ali Mosque located within the walls of the Citadel. From the courtyard is a magnificent view across the city to the Pyramids. The Mohammed Ali Mosque has become a symbol of Cairo. Constructed in the mid 19th century, Mohammed Ali's body is in a marble tomb there. The interior of the mosque is covered with beautiful panels of alabaster. We learned that the only source of Alabaster in the world is Luxor, which will visit later on our trip.

Our group gets a history lesson from Osman. Over looking Cairo from the Citadel (Pyramids can be seen in the distance)

Our driver, Abraham, comes through for us again. While we were at the Mosque, he picked up falafel sandwiches…to go. We were all famished and this croquette-type patty made from chickpeas and served in a warm pita, hit the spot! Abraham dropped us off in Coptic Cairo, the oldest part of the city, which covers about 2.2 acres. This ancient part of the city includes Coptic Cairo, many historic churches and takes in the southern tip of the island of Rhoda. Coptic Cairo sits within the walls of the 3rd century AD Roman fortress of Babylon. We paused for pictures of the Roman Tower that still stands. Our next stop is the Coptic Church of Abu Sarga. It is often called the “Hanging” or “Suspended” Church, because it is built on top of the Water Gate of the old Roman fortress of Babylon. It is one of the oldest churches in Egypt and hangs from beams that suspend it far above street level.

Our final stop today in Coptic Cairo is the Ben Ezra Synagogue, which is the site of the discovery of the Genizah fragments of the Hebrew Bible. This is the oldest synagogue in Cairo. Tradition has this as the place where Moses was pulled out of the bulrushes. The synagogue, was built in the 11-12th century among the ruins of an 8th century church. Repairs in the 19th century unearthed hundreds of Hebrew manuscripts from the synagogue’s intact geniza, where any paper bearing the name of God was preserved.

As we drive toward the hotel, we stop briefly at the location where Anwar Sadat was assassinated in 1981. There is an elaborate monument across the street from the locations. Osman has done a fabulous job of keeping us awake with his fascinating stories, but we are fading fast. We head back to the hotel, for dinner and finally…a good night’s sleep.

Thursday, Jan. 15 – Depart for New York City

Note to readers: If you’ve arrived at this page because you were hoping to follow Jane’s blog on this trip, I must apologize in advance. We are all praying for Olen’s father’s rapid recovery, and we are so sorry that Jane and Olen had to cancel at the last minute. I am especially sorry, because Jane asked me to take the blogging reigns for this trip. I won’t be the same, but hopefully it will be enough to let you keep up with our journey from the comfort of your home. I can't thank Jane enough for lending me her very helpful notes on the trip. I couldn't be doing this without them! Thursday, Jan. 15 – Depart for New York City The majority of our group flew into JFK Airport today, staying at various hotels in the area. Much to my delight, my flight arrived early, but they apparently weren’t prepared for our arrival, so 1.5 hours later, I finally had my luggage and was on my way to the hotel shuttle. A couple boarded the bus shortly after I did and, as we were discussing what part of the country we were traveling from, I happened to notice a Ferrell Jenkins Tours bag on the man’s lap. What a small world. I chatted with Doug and Linda from California on the way to the hotel. We arrived at the hotel about 1:00 am, and thankfully my roommates were gratuitous enough to let me in anyway.

5 Days and Counting

The Egyptian adventure begins in a few days. It doesn't seem real at this point...probably because I haven't packed a thing. But I have been thinking about what to pack, if I were to actually pull out the suitcase. I like to think of it as virtual packing! I hope to be able to follow through with the blog this time. I'll be taking a laptop ...so communicating should be MUCH easier. It won't be as funny as Jane's, but hopefully I'll be able to share some neat pictures.